WINE AND FOOD PAIRING


Owner Jay Hedlund was recently featured in the April 17 issue of The Falmouth Enterprise, after her trip to Argentina and Chile where she and a friend visited wineries.

Take a look at the menu: stuffed mushrooms with duck confit in a blueberry sauce, followed perhaps by beef tenderloin steak with corn and spinach in a sweet potato emulsion. Or, if you wish, octopus and squid served with black gnocchi in a bacon sauce. Dessert? Warm mango and banana roll, Malibu rum foam, coconut ice cream and tamarind sauce. Too much? Maybe just a Catalan vanilla custard to end the meal.

These were some of the choices enjoyed by Jay Hedlund and Diane Salter when they traveled to South America earlier this year. Diane owns Vincent Associates Real Estate in Falmouth, and Jay will be celebrating her eighth anniversary as owner of Falmouth Wine & Spirits on Palmer Avenue.

This January they went to the inauguration, then to sample the wines (and food) of Chile and Argentina. "I didn't think I'd like Chile as much as I did," Jay said. "We were only there for a few days and mostly we just ate and looked around," Diane added. Laughing, both women agreed that this was all in the name of research for Jay's wine shelves.

The Food & Wine website reports that at the time of the first Thanksgiving here in 1621, workers were already harvesting grapes in the vineyards of Chile and Argentina. Spanish missionaries had brought vines from Europe in the 1500s; in fact, the first professionally farmed vineyard in Chile was established in 1554.

Since the early 1990s, these products have become popular in our wine shops. They are known for their delicious flavor, as well as their very affordable prices. In fact, Diane said that the wines were so good on their trip that they ordered the wine first, then considered what food to have with it. Jay added that she has the largest selection of these wines on the Cape. "They are an excellent value," she explained, "inexpensive but very, very good quality."

They didn't visit any wineries in Chile, but had a full schedule of tastings when they got to Argentina. "They are extremely concerned about their land," Jay stated, "and they are very careful of pollution." Diane agreed and recalled that an insecticide was used at only one of the wineries they visited.

Our conversation turned once again to food. "There's a huge Italian influence in Argentina," Diane told me. "Their grass-fed beef is absolutely delicious, and the presentation of every dish was quite dramatic. In Chile the presentation was a little different, but then again, we were pretty much on our own to choose where to go, whereas in Argentina we had a driver who took us around."

Both countries have their specialties. Chile exports crisp, citrusy Sauvignon blanc, and reds from Carmenere. The latter are described as a "distinctively spicy French grape that has become abundant in Chilean vineyards."

Argentina gives us its marquee variety: Malbec which comes from the Mendoza region. It can best be described as having rich blueberry and blackberry flavors, light smokiness, and soft tannins. "Very much like a French merlot," Diane described. It's been called magical ever since it fell out of favor in France and found a home in Argentinean vineyards, where the arid, sunny growing conditions and abundant irrigation water allow it to thrive. It also has few natural pests, which is good for the insecticide-free cultivation that Diane's mentioned earlier.

Some recipes follow. Jay discovered the halibut dish in The New York Times. "When I made it, I served it with a Catena Chardonnay from Argentina, and it was just a perfect pairing," she recalled. "The dish is also very easy to prepare." She also gave me instructions for a spicy potato and tomato casserole, similar to one they were served in Chile.

Chimichurri is the traditional accompaniment for steak in Argentina, where the cattle are grass fed. This relish is an olive oil-based sauce with vinegar, parsley, and other seasonings that complement the beef very well. Because the meat is so lean, it is best served rare; the recipe is the cover one from Bon Appetit's February issue. Of course, Jay would be happy to help you select a wine to go with any of these dishes, or just to talk with you about her trip and all that "research!"


Olive Oil Poached Halibut
with Garlic and Mint

1 lb halibut fillet, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes

4 tbsp olive oil

1 small sprig rosemary

1/2 tsp dried mint

2 cloves garlic, minced

Fresh lemon juice and chopped fresh mint

Season the halibut all over with salt and pepper to taste; heat the oil in a large skillet and add the fish, rosemary, and dried mint. Cook slowly over low heat for 3 minutes, just until the halibut is opaque; stir in garlic and a little more salt and pepper. Cook until the garlic is fragrant and the fish is cooked through, about 3 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if needed; squeeze some fresh lemon juice over the top and serve with fresh mint, spooning the cooking liquid over all.

Picante de Papas

3 tbsp olive oil

2 serrano or jalapeno chilies, seeded and finely minced

1 cup half and half

1 medium onion, sliced thinly

5 medium potatoes, cooked until barely tender

2 tbsp freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 clove garlic, minced

4 tomatoes, peeled and sliced

1/2 cup grated Gouda

Peel and slice the potatoes; set aside. In a small skillet, heat 2 tbsp oil and sauté the onion until soft, but not brown; add garlic and cook 1 minute more, then remove from heat and season with salt to taste. Using the remaining 1 tbsp oil, coat a shallow baking dish and scatter half of the sautéed onion on the bottom; cover with half the potatoes and half the tomatoes. Season lightly with salt and sprinkle half the chilies on top, then half of the cheeses. Repeat these layers, ending with cheese, and pour the cream on top. Bake in a preheated 400° oven for 35 to 40 minutes, until the cream has been absorbed and the cheese is browned; serve immediately.



Grass-Fed Steaks with Kalamata Olive Chimichurri

3 tbsp olive oil

4 cloves garlic, 2 minced, 2 sliced thinly

1/4 tsp dried crushed red pepper flakes

1 fresh bay leaf, broken in half

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

1/4 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

2 tbsp finely chopped pitted Kalamata olives

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 to 2 tbsp water

28 to 32 oz two-inch thick, grass-fed New York strip steaks (two steaks)

2 tsp paprika

1 tsp kosher salt

1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

Make the chimichurri: heat 2 tbsp oil in a small skillet and add sliced garlic, crushed red pepper, and bay leaf; cook until fragrant, then add shallots and sauté for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the parsley, olives, and vinegar; add 1 tbsp water and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more water, if needed, to thin the sauce; let stand at room temperature for up to 2 hours to blend the flavors. Rub the steaks with 1 tbsp oil and season with paprika, kosher salt, cayenne, and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Let stand for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or for up to 2 hours; heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat and add oil. Sear the steaks on both sides and place in a preheated 400° oven; roast for 10 minutes, or until they register 115 degrees for rare. Let rest for 5 minutes; slice thinly, crosswise, and serve garnished with chimichurri sauce.

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